Well, I just finished packing.
I am heading home to Calgary tomorrow, but it feels bittersweet leaving Poland. I feel so at home here, too. Mind you, I realise that every country I have ever found myself in, I have been at home there. So, I must return here soon, I have decided!
These past few days in Gdansk have been fairly quiet, resting up from the non-stop-go of the past two weeks.
I spent a couple of days at the archives looking for more information on my Grampa and his family. I found some interesting facts, but with so many changes politically and geographically in this country over the years, it hasn't been easy. I have a lovely Polish lady, a genealogist, on the "case". I am looking forward to hearing from her in the next while as well.
I did find out that my Grampa was not actually from the city of Danzig/Gdansk, but (in his day) a small farming village, just to the south of Danzig. This village was called Scharfenberg and today is known in Polish as Bystra-Osiedle. This area is still a village and is 320 residents strong.
Historically, Scharfenberg is mentioned in documents dating back to 1308, and in 1367 this area was “granted a charter by the Teutonic Knights”.
I grabbed a taxi to Scharfenberg/Bystra-Osiedle not really knowing where I was going or where I would end up. I told the taxi driver this in broken Polish and a greater amount of English, and luckily again, this enthusiastic Gentleman spoke better English than I could speak Polish!
However, when you don't know where you're going, how do you explain where you want to be!? (Now there's a metaphor for certain times of my life!!!)
Anyways, he dropped me off at a restaurant near the downtown area and with an agreement and synchronization of our watches, he handed me his business card and told me to call him when I was ready to be picked up at the same location at 3 PM. It was now 10 AM. So I wandered around the city on this rainy, cloudy day, jumping through the puddles wherever I found them, finding a Mexican restaurant of all places, and I had to laugh at the fact that I was sitting at lunch by a fireplace in Poland having Mexican food! Bizarre!
I didn’t find anything regarding my Grampa during this visit to Scharfenberg, and yet I still felt a sense of connection to him and my Ancestors. I really felt watched over by them even without discovering any further information. At some point I would love to be able to come back with some documentation of some kind to perhaps find traces of where my family used to be or where they moved on to. A cool project to delve into!
After tracing back my steps, I called the taxi driver and before any time had passed he returned to get me! I learned on the ride back that the reason he spoke English so well was because his sister had immigrated to Canada a number of years before, and was now living in Edmonton, where he visited a number of times. What a cool story and the connection to Edmonton was a reminder of how grateful I am to be Canadian, and that my country still accepts people from other countries, just as it did of my Grampa years ago!
Gdansk has to be my favourite city on this journey. I am staying near the river walkway and old town. As mentioned previously, after WWII, this whole area was rebuilt to its former historical beauty. It had been bombed repeatedly by the Allied forces trying to rid the city of the Nazis.
I visited the Historical Museum of Gdansk for a rainy afternoon. Such a great decision! To experience the city in a historical perspective was really insightful, and made me appreciate my visit all that much more. It was fascinating to see the city flourishing in fashion, art, culture, religion, politics, and conflicts throughout the years.
I learned that the name ‘Gdansk’ comes from the Gdania River, which is what the Motława River was originally called. Its name was first recorded in 997 A.D., which is when the first settlement was established. Gdansk celebrated its 1000 (millennial) year in 1997.
I was also grateful to have climbed the tower of the museum and see the city from the observation deck. Although it was raining quite heavily, I was still able to take some amazing photos of the city, which seemed mystical and mysterious through the fog and mist.
It was especially mesmerizing to see it from a higher vantage point!
So many quaint cafes, cosy wine bars, wonderfully inviting restaurants, art galleries, shops, museums, and of course, St. Mary’s Basilica.
The first stone of this church was placed on March 25, 1343 and only completed around 1502. It is considered as one of the three largest brick churches in Europe. The interior is incredible with tombs of knights, royalty, nobility and influential artisans under foot, with the marble flooring smoothed and polished over the centuries.
There is room in this basilica for over 25,000 people, and yet it feels even more spacious with its gothic arches extending high above. My first impression was one of astonishment for the creativity of the workmanship, especially since this church was first built by hand over a period of many years, and without any cranes or technology that we use now. I am so amazed!
This part of Gdansk has the most intriguing and architecturally magnificent buildings I have ever seen, which seem to make me feel like I've been sent back in time.
I had just seen dated photos of the city’s destruction and damage from WWII, and then to see it now since the restoration, renewed my awe and wonder of this ancient, magical city.
Of course, playing tourist for my last day, I felt rather "obligated" to try out as many cafes/restaurants to check out the delicious Polish food as I could! Just seems like it could become my new comfort food!
And it has been nice to get indoors these last couple of days with lots of rain and quite chilly. Feels like late fall here, instead of summer.
I am heading back home with so many memories, and definitely a renewed sense of who I am in having seen where my Ancestors came from. So enthralled by this land, the history, and the experiences that have shaped my family and the people who still thrive here. I can’t wait to return!!!
So thank you everyone for sharing this amazing journey with me during the past couple of weeks. It has been such a pleasure taking you along and describing just a bit of what I have been experiencing. I hope this leads you to discover more about yourself as well. Take care in the meantime!
Cheers, Jae
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