Good evening to you all! Welcome to another segment of this journey!
This was another great day seeing this lovely and historic part of the world. Today, I had the absolute privilege to visit Rhodes, Greece. This magnificent place is a World Heritage Site and has been declared the “island of roses'' (Rhodon in Greek), as well as “the island of Knights”.
Aboard the top deck of the ship as we docked this morning, I was mesmerized. In front of me was the walled fortress of the Old Town up against the Kolona Harbour, which is also called the Tongue of Castille. This harbour is only one of four in Rhodes.
I learned that this harbour may have been where the Colossus of Rhodes used to stand before being carted off in 654 A.D. by Islamic conquerors under Caliph Muawiyah. (Some reports also claim it may have been located where the Grand Master’s Palace is now situated.)
The Colossus of Rhodes was a massive statue of the Greek sun god, Helios. It is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
From 1310 to 1522, the Knights of Rhodes were headquartered on this island. These Knights were otherwise known as the Order Of Knights Of The Hospital Of Saint John Of Jerusalem, named after John The Baptist. They were a Catholic military order and gained prominence after the First Crusade, receiving its own papal charter.
This island has had so many other influences throughout its long and colourful history, including the Greeks, the Persians, Alexander the Great, Hannibal, the Romans, Islamic forces, the Arabs, the Byzantines, the Crusades, the Ottomans,... and changed ruling powers so many more times than this.
Another prominent influence on this island is Mary, the Mother of God. There are tributes and monuments of Her in so many corners, nooks, buildings and gateways. In fact, the main gateway through the medieval fortress along the harbour is called the Virgin Mary’s Gate, which was opened in 1955. A sure sign of protection for all those entering and leaving this Old Town.
During this day, I only explored the Old Town, but even then I didn’t see it all. It is such a charming and stunning place with its medieval architecture and monuments, paying tribute to the great eras of history, which have laid claim to this island throughout the centuries.
I certainly could have rushed through this area of Rhodes to see everything, but based on what I was seeing, I really wanted to absorb this place in all its splendor. I felt so at home here. There was such a sense of familiarity. I’m not sure if it was because of how historical it is with its medieval grandeur, the quaint shops, the old-world charm, or the picturesque scenery.
Or maybe it was the curious and welcoming people who invited me into their shops and cafes, and also into their lives. Yet another reason I love to travel! I love the easy flow of conversation between people, when we get out from behind the walls we build up under the stress of our daily lives and are at ease in our surroundings. When we have learned to relax, and be at peace. The inquisitiveness and natural eagerness to learn about one another!
As I wandered into shops, I learned once more that the cruise ship was the last one of the season. So there were lots of sales! YAY!!! Of course, the shops I was drawn to were so enticing. Again, there are great salespeople everywhere!
I continued to wander along the streets of the Old Town. I can’t explain how enthralled I was at all that I was seeing. The artifacts and architecture of different ages of history were so well preserved in their detail. It was like stepping back in time everywhere I turned.
A person would think being surrounded with so much historical influence that it would be gaudy and an assault on the eyes, but here it just fits so well together. It all seemed to mesh and merge in such harmony as if it was all meant to be.
It seemed symbolic of life somehow. How I tend sometimes to think that situations and events don’t fit in my life, and I sense that I may be on the wrong track. When in fact, I can’t see the bigger picture, nor do I have all the pieces within my reach.
Eventually, I am happy to say that when I stop resisting, get out of my own way, and I learn to be patient for things to unfold, I can look back in hindsight and see that all these pieces came together. And, they fit beautifully together exactly as they were destined.
While exploring, I found my way to Ippoton Street, or the Street of Knights.
This street amazed me with its shops and consulates hidden behind its doors, the open tunnels where I could picture knights in their armour running through to some battle, and the cobblestones, which must have been laid precisely by many hands for the length of the street and into its winding tunnels. Such a work of art and impeccable craftsmanship! Wow!
I came across the French Consulate. Signs on the door offered support and condolences. Inside, a simple, somber memorial was displayed on a stone altar with a lantern and a few candles burning as a vigil to those who had passed in the Paris attacks just a few days ago.
As I left the Consulate walking carefully on these cobblestones, which were polished and yet still sharp in places through my thin shoes, I made my way up the street. This long street led up to a beautiful archway, which I learned was the entrance to the Grand Master’s Palace, the main headquarters of the Knights of Rhodes.
This palace was a former citadel built by the Byzantines during the 7th century. Under the occupation of the Knights of Rhodes, the citadel became a fortress and palace for the Grand Master, as well as the headquarters for the Knights.
During the rule of the Ottoman Empire in 1522, the Palace was used as a command centre and a fortress. It has also been the holiday residence of the King of Italy and later, for dictator, Benito Mussolini. These days, it is a museum for the many tourists visiting the island!
Beside the Palace, there is a clock tower and adjacent to this is the Grand Sultan Suleiman Mosque, and sometimes known as the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent, or the Mosque of Suleiman.
The medieval clock tower is said to be in constant use even after all these years. This is really remarkable considering that it was built during the Byzantine era in the 7th century.
The Mosque was mostly built in 1522 to commemorate the conqueror Suleiman during the Ottoman siege and capture of Rhodes. It was the first Mosque in Rhodes, using some of the building materials from a Christian Church which previously stood on the site. Centuries later in 1808, it was reconstructed and today it serves as a museum.
After a brief lunch on a patio at a beautiful, garden restaurant, I continued down a street full of shops and cafes. I just loved all the out of the way places. At one point, I peeked into an alley. It wasn’t dark or dingy, littered with garbage. Just the opposite!
Along with its cobblestones, wooden arches and lanterns, the doors of shops stood open beckoning me in. How could I resist!!?
I found the most incredible antique, secondhand, boutique shop. It was filled with such treasures from all ages. I have never been to an antique store that held items dating before the 18th century. This store captivated me with all its eclectic and historical pieces.
As I was looking around, an older Gentleman came in and introduced himself as the owner. We chatted for a bit about his store and all the artifacts that were displayed. He mentioned that this was not all he had.
Across the alley from this shop was his workshop, where he cleaned up the items before placing them for sale in the store. I could only shake my head in amazement.
I purchased a few items to fit in my luggage, which was already brimming full of souvenirs and gifts. What a find! Wandering off the beaten track holds some great rewards!
Before I knew it, it was time to make my way back to the ship. It was almost time to depart and I didn’t want to be running late.
Rhodes has turned out to be an extraordinary place! I am so thrilled that I was able to experience this phenomenal island and the Old Town.
Every place I have ever visited, on this journey and others, has its own feel to it that makes it unique. For me, Rhodes stood out as a combination of history and charm. The term “enchanting” seems to encompass this medieval Old Town.
I look forward to returning, for a longer time than just a few hours, and really do some intense exploring through the Old Town, the town beyond the fortress walls, and the island. I sense that this day was just a taste of how fascinating this island can be!
A cool bit of trivia I learned today was that one of my favourite old movies, The Guns of Navarone from 1961, with Gregory Peck, David Niven and Charles Bronson, to name only a few of the movie’s stars, was filmed here on Rhodes. Now that’s worth a return journey just to see where that was done. Like I need an excuse?!
We are now setting sail for Crete, where we will be docking tomorrow morning. I will write more to you when I can. Thanks for reading! Bye for now!
Love, Jae
P.S. As a side note, I would like to give a big thank you to www.britannia.com, www.history.ca, and Wikipedia for their historical and invaluable information, which helped me to answer many questions on these areas I have visited!
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