Hello everyone! I trust this finds you very well and ready for another segment of my trip. Thanks for sharing my journey with me!
So today is the official third day of my 14 day Holy Land Explorer Mediterranean Cruise. And so far, it has been a fantastic voyage! I have been to Athens (Greece), Kuşadası (Turkey) where I went to Ephesus, and Marmaris (Turkey) where I sat on a beautiful beach on the shores of the Aegean Sea!
I’ve seen so much in such a short amount of time and I am learning so much of the history of these areas. I am so AMAZED!!!
Let me start at the beginning…
Arriving at the Athens International Airport, otherwise known as Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos, or shortened to AIA, was exciting. Not for the airport itself, but for how I felt like I was stepping into a life changing adventure. I had expected the airport to showcase the classical and mythological world of Greece with its vibrant and dynamic history, but it was rather stark, nondescript and impersonal. It wasn’t until I made my way to the hotel nearby where I saw true depictions of what I thought of as Greece.
From the food in the restaurant, the paintings, the sculptures to the fabric artwork from modern day artisans, who carried on the traditions of classicism. I appreciate progress, but there is something about paying tribute to the history that brought us this far, which really resonates with me!
The next morning, without any instruction or real direction, Denise and I found our way to the bus, which took its passengers from the airport, through Athens and to Piraeus.
Piraeus is the ancient sea port city within Athens where the “Rotterdam”, the cruise ship and my new home, was docked. Piraeus dates back to the fifth century B.C. in ancient Greece. After a period of decline from the third century B.C., it returned to prominence in the 19th century when Athens was named the capital of Greece on September 18, 1834.
Traveling through Athens and into Piraeus, one could see how the current economic situation is affecting this area of the world. There seemed to be a sadness to the faces we saw, and the places we passed by looked like they had seen better days, as their upkeep didn’t seem to be a priority.
When I got to the cruise port, I met a young Lady and her little sister who were asking for funds. When they approached me, I asked them their story and why they came to be here at this spot looking to others for money. They both spoke a smattering of English.
As it turned out, they were both from Syria, and were forced to leave due to the war that had broken out in their country and the threat of ISIS. They wanted to go home to their country, back to their life there, but without a way or means to do so, and the horrors of war, they needed to provide for themselves, or risk ending up in a refugee camp. For a woman and/or a young girl, these camps are just as dangerous as returning home.
It made me stop in my tracks at how fortunate I am. To be able to travel the way I do, to the places I can, to live in a peaceful nation without the threat of war. How blessed am I to be able to work for a living and make enough money to put food on my table, clothes in my closet, to pay all my bills and rent! How fortunate I am to have money left over so that I can venture off to other countries, see how others live, and be able to help where I can!
How can we, who live in peaceful nations, ever know what it is like to be forced from our homes in an instant, with only the clothes on our back, running for our lives and then have to make a new life in a place where it doesn’t feel like home at all!? May I never have to experience this, and may I never take my life for granted!
After checking in with the ship’s officials and tagging our luggage with our room number, we waited in the lounge area for our “zone” to be called up before boarding the ship. We were directed to our deck and eventually found our room, where our tagged luggage was waiting for us.
The room was bright and cheery with the curtains parted so we could see the Saronic Gulf. Numerous ships of all sizes came and went from the port traveling well past the Greek islands, which stretched out into the distance.
After unpacking, it was time to do a bit of exploring! We ventured down the long hallways, up and down stairs, checking out the many areas, crooks and crannies of this incredible ship, while trying to stay out of the way of the many passengers boarding the ship. New neighbours, and strangers soon to be friends.
Dinner was definitely a celebration of arriving safe and sound, and of things to come! Already we were meeting some really lovely people in the various crew members, who did their job so professionally, and with a few of the passengers. As we came to find out, some of these passengers had started their trips from previous places before Athens, and there were others who had just boarded as we had. So many great people from such diverse backgrounds. How awesome!
The next day after rising slowly, we received instructions and directions on how to find our way to the Acropolis to see the Parthenon. The ship was scheduled to leave the port that evening, so it was necessary to be back before then, which meant the whole day was free to sightsee.
Leaving the ship we bought tickets and found our way to the ‘hop on/hop off’ double decker, open air bus. What a great way to see this city on a spectacular sunny and clear, blue sky day!
From Piraeus to Athens, the bus journeyed past the marina and its grand boats, through streets lined with quaint apartment buildings and open air markets, up close and personal with brilliant white churches and their rounded domes of sea blue. Down busy paved thoroughfares, up narrow cobblestone streets overlooking the Saronic Gulf and the array of luxurious and opulent yachts, with the Olympic Stadium overseeing it all.
Gradually the bus came out of the neighbourhoods and into an open area. To my left I looked, and then did a double take.
Off in the distance on a high hill that seemed to be under a spotlight just for me, the Acropolis rose up with the Parthenon showcased so beautifully on top. How phenomenal! I couldn’t wait to get off the bus to see it all in person!
From doing a bit of research, I learned that the first Parthenon was built in the Bronze Age (3300 - 1200 BC). It was destroyed and levelled by the Persians in 480 BC, before being rebuilt to a glorious splendour by Pericles under his 50 year project from 480 - 430 BC, though the project outlived him.
Throughout history, the Acropolis’ Parthenon has been used as a religious centre for many varied beliefs, such as a home to Greek mythological gods, Christian churches, and mosques. It has also been a citadel, a fortress for kings, as well as a weapons and munitions storage facility.
It has also withstood earthquakes, vandalism over the years, and bombardments by enemy invaders. For example, during the 15 year Morean War between the Ottomans and the Venetians, the Parthenon was used by the Turks to store gunpowder. On September 26, 1687, a cannonball was unleashed by the Venetians, and the Parthenon exploded causing massive destruction, toppling columns and collapsing the cella. Over 300 Turkish soldiers were killed.
Thankfully, my time was spent there very peacefully among tourists from so many lands!
That evening by 6 PM, all passengers had arrived on board. After a fire and evacuation drill, the ship set sail into the sunset. Our journey to the Holy Land had begun!
Our next stop was Kuşadası, Turkey on the Aegean Sea. It is a beach resort town, which has a beautiful marina and boardwalk lined with hotels, little shops, restaurants and cafes. There is also a Byzantine fortress on Pigeon Island just offshore, which used to protect the city.
Kuşadası was also the starting point of our excursion for the day. From here, Denise and I took a city bus to a transfer point to take another bus to Ephesus. However, as we found out, we got off the bus at an earlier stop than we should have. Instead of taking the bus to the entrance of Ephesus, we found ourselves at the exit and we were not allowed to start from the end.
While we were contemplating our situation, we met one of the vendors at a souvenir kiosk. His name was Sultan, and he suggested that he would find a way to take us to the entrance. After consulting with one another, Denise and I took him up on his kind offer.
He drove us to Selçuk, which is a small town and considered the “gateway to Ephesus”. There, he dropped us off at his friends’ shops. One of these was a store filled with beautiful leather jackets and products from the area, and these were handmade within the community.
The next one was a Persian carpet shop. I have always seen these gorgeous carpets and been amazed at the various designs and details interspersed in these. It wasn’t until I visited this shop that I could truly appreciate the work put into these works of art. These carpets were hand woven onsite with such care by Ladies of a Women’s Cooperative and all proceeds went to educational projects for these Ladies and their families.
After visiting these shops, we found out that Sultan had organized a ride for us to the entrance of Ephesus. We were delivered safe and sound! We were so fortunate to have met this true Gentleman and his generous friends. The “kindness of strangers” lives on!
Ephesus was founded in the 10th century B.C., though the area surrounding Ephesus was inhabited since the Neolithic Period (6,000 B.C.). At this time, Ephesus was a coastal town along the Aegean Sea, but the sea has since slipped away and it is now about 3 km from the site.
Over the years, this site has seen so many ages and periods of history come and go, such as the Neolithic, Bronze, Greek migrations, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and the times continue. So many rulers and conflicts, as well as natural disasters, including major earthquakes.
On the other hand, all this adversity developed a few saints with varied experiences having spent time here. These include St. Paul, St. John, and St. Mary, the Mother of God.
Paul was a tent maker and seller at the Agora at one point. John wrote about Ephesus in the Book of Revelation. The Basilica of St. John is said to be built over the apostle’s tomb. And, you can still visit Mary’s house, which is not too far from the site of Ephesus.
This ancient site was just declared to be a UNESCO World Heritage site (2015), so it will be protected and kept intact for years to come.
I don’t know what stood out in my mind the most about Ephesus. Perhaps the various influences on the architecture, or the marble slabs which were so worn from wear over numerous millenia.
What comes to mind most of all, is that in our day and age, we believe we are the more modern age with all our technology and gadgets. And yet, the craftsmanship and architectural marvels I have just seen seem to surpass what we create now.
It astounds me that buildings where I live are usually considered “old” after 30 years or so, and torn down to build new. Some of these buildings at Ephesus have been standing for almost 3,000 years or longer.
The place was just so remarkable, ancient, and historic. I have so much to learn and traveling to such places is such a great motivator to study and question what I have experienced. How I love traveling!
I was sad to leave this place as I know that I did not see nearly all of it. It was only a taste! Another place I need to return to at a later date.
After reaching the end, the kiosks waited with their souvenirs piled high on numerous shelves. It seemed rather out of place and yet, I imagine it is in keeping with the busy markets back in the ancient days.
Sultan was waiting for us and once again, his generosity and care of us knew no bounds as he provided us with another car ride. He drove us back to Selçuk and after big hugs and “thank yous”, we caught a return bus to Kuşadası. We had a few free minutes to wander the boardwalk and take photos. Much too soon, we needed to board the ship as our ship’s hard working crew made preparations for us to once again set sail.
We were told that we were the last cruise ship for the season, so there were a number of people on shore seeing us off.
In the early evening sunset, we once again set sail and made our way south past the Byzantine fortress, and the rugged mountains and islands on either side leading us out of the bay.
The next stop on the following day was Marmaris, Turkey.
Marmaris is known for its diving and sailing, with tourism being its main form of income. It used to be a sleepy little fishing village until the construction boom in the 1980s. The population is now about 40,000 and increases to about 400,000 with the influx of tourists. It is a popular winter destination for boaters with its warm weather.
Its history is dynamic with its many invasions from the Greeks, Alexander the Great, the Ottomans, the British and so on. Its name comes from the Greek word, màrmaron (marble), or in Turkish, mermer. Historically, this lovely port was prominent in the marble trade with its rich deposits found in the surrounding mountains.
When the ship docked early this morning, my first impression of this seaside city was one of awe. Opening the curtains, all I could see were rows of sailboats in the marina on a beautiful, warm, sunny day. For this day, I didn’t book an excursion, but instead I decided to head to the beach for a swim in the sea. But first, I wanted to find a restaurant and see what delicious food was waiting for me. I wasn’t disappointed!
Leaving the ship, I walked through the marina, so enthralled. This beautiful resort is part of the Turkish Riviera. It is so captivating, combining luxurious opulence and quaint beauty. And on this gorgeous day, I was just so mesmerized by it all!
The view was so picture postcard. The sailboats, the rugged mountains beyond the bay overlooking the sea, charming villas nestled in the hills, and so clean. Even thinking about it now as I write, the thought of this scene makes me relaxed. So spectacular!
I found a restaurant overlooking the marina. I had the perfect meal for such picturesque scenery - a Caprese salad, fresh seafood pasta and a Turkish (of course!) coffee! I may have eaten a bit faster than usual, but I couldn’t wait to explore this lovely port.
Everywhere I went, there was so much beauty. The quaint shops, the markets, the marina boardwalk, the canals with the marble fish water spouts, the monuments to peace and friendship, the beach bordering the Aegean Sea full of families and fishermen on this warm November day. The water was so clear and stretched out to the mountain islands beyond the boats that were anchored in the bay.
The time I spent relaxing on the beach seemed to pass by so quickly. On the way back to the ship I wandered along the boardwalk and of course, various shops pulled me in. Let’s just say that there are some really great salespeople in this world!!!
It’s probably a good thing that I only had a few moments to browse and shop.
I don’t know what I expected in visiting Turkey, but this country is one I would love to explore further given the chance.
Now that I have been here, I have been researching other sites found in this amazing country. There are so many that I would love to visit given the opportunity. I certainly would need more than a couple of days!
The sights, the sounds, the smells of spices and the saltiness of the sea. The history, the ancient beauty, the warm hearted and kind people...definitely worth a return visit...over and over again!
And so as I write this, the ship has just sailed away from Marmaris with the sun setting in lovely tinges of pink over the mountains as we make our way further south through the Aegean Sea to the Mediterranean Sea.
We spend tomorrow, November 11th, Remembrance or Veteran’s Day, at sea and the following day we will find ourselves in Haifa, Israel.
I look forward to telling you all about my latest experiences in the next letter. I am so intrigued as to what I will see.
I have an excursion to Nazareth, so I am really looking forward to this opportunity to see the hometown of Jesus.
Take care of yourselves in the meantime!
Love, Jae
P.S. As a side note, I would like to give a big thank you to www.britannia.com, www.history.ca, and Wikipedia for their historical and invaluable information, which helped me to answer many questions on these areas I have visited!
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