Hello everyone!
I am currently sitting at the Kirkwall Airport waiting until my flight leaves for Edinburgh. I will be spending a couple of days there before flying home. Hope this finds you very well!
It seems like I just arrived on this incredible island of Orkney, though it has already been a week. Crazy how time flies! It's been a busy time but so rewarding in the sights, sounds and experiences I've had. It is very difficult for me to leave!
And, the people! I can't forget about them. So many warm hearted, generous people, who would give the shirts off their back to ensure I am taken care of. Strong, proud, grounded people who are so connected to their past and this historical land.
The place that really resonated with me on this island was the Stones of Stenness. This site dates back to 2900 B.C., which is 800 years older than Stonehenge, and was also a ceremonial site for various ancient communities on the island.
These stones are placed in a circle with a central hub that saw numerous spiritual celebrations. People who have tried re-creating these rituals have mentioned that the acoustics are incredible, especially when music and laughter reverberate off of the remaining stones.
The stones that are still standing rise high into the sky about 2 to 3 stories tall. They are like towers on a flat plain with misty mountains just beyond the adjacent large body of water. Here, some really gigantic swans float by (seriously, these swans here are massive!)
Archeologists claim that these stones are just as deep as they are tall, which is phenomenal to think about. I stood beside them and wondered how the ancient people of this land managed to bring these towering stones to this site and then "plant" them in the Earth at their exact points in a perfect circle. Boggles the mind!
Before I even knew about these stones, every time I pictured myself in Scotland I somehow saw myself standing by a tall monolith of a stone. So to see this site was quite haunting and thoroughly exciting for me. A feeling like I had finally arrived "home" is the only way I can describe it! Major “deja-vu”!
We also traveled a little north of these stones to come to another similar site. The Ring of Brodgar, which as its name implies, is a ring or circle of Neolithic standing stones.
These henges, Stones of Stenness and Ring of Brodgar, are considered the northernmost henges in Britain. The age of this ring is in question but it is thought to have been built between 2500 - 2000 B.C.
Some of the stones have fallen due to erosion, lightning strikes or other environmental occurrences, but the majority of these in the circle remain standing even now. Hard to fathom the ages of history which have passed since they were erected.
According to Wikipedia, it is considered a “ritual landscape”. Excavations of this particular area have discovered that it was used in ancient periods at different times for ceremonies. Various remnants of these rituals have been found, such as arrowheads, and maceheads. Since 1999, this site has been considered a “Heart Of Neolithic Orkney” UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We had the pleasure this week to have another amazing historian, David Murdoch, guide us through Kirkwall. I had some great conversations with him. His lovely wife took part in a teacher exchange a number of years ago in Fort St. John and Dawson Creek, BC. (The company where I formerly worked had offices in these centres at the time - 2016). I've been on many tours during my travels but this was by far the best.
"Kirk" means "church" and so "Churchwall", which is a fitting name for this large town. The name was of Norse origin. The population is around 10,000 inhabitants.
Saint Magnus Cathedral is the main attraction here. This Saint's remains are buried in a pillar. A painting of him hangs in this cathedral.
Saint Magnus was a Viking pacifist who ruled with his cousin, Haakon, until the rivalry for the right to rule resulted in his death on April 16, 1117 on the island of Egilsay, where he was buried. He was beatified in 1136 by Bishop William of Orkney and for the consecration of the cathedral in 1137, his body was exhumed and transferred back to Kirkwall at the request of his Mother.
There have been plenty of stories of healings taking place over the years as people come into proximity to his remains. I believe miracles do happen every day so in touching the wall where he lays, who knows the miracles in store for me now?!! I already feel extremely blessed to be here!
This cathedral was built by the Vikings 879 years ago (as of 2016), its construction started in 1137 and continued to be built upon for over 300 years. It's not surprising that the history of this cathedral and the area is rich, often violent and very intriguing.
Even today, there is still a strong influence of Scandinavian heritage here in Kirkwall and on the Orkney Islands. Flights to Bergen, Norway leave regularly from here with it being only 300 miles away.
At the moment until the end of the month (May 2016), this cathedral is home to an exhibit of ceramic poppies which is set up outside of one of the cathedral windows. It is entitled "Weeping Window" commemorating the fallen soldiers of the Commonwealth during WWI.
This is only part of the full exhibit which is also on display at the Tower of London. There, the display showcases 888,000 red poppies - one for each soldier who gave his life!
Across the street from Saint Magnus’ Cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace. Currently this palace is in ruins, framing various great rooms, which open to the elements. This stone palace was originally built around 1100 and then renovated in the 1540’s by Bishop William Reid, who transformed it into a thriving palace. In medieval times, the Bishop’s Palace was home to Orkney’s bishops who were wealthy, powerful men, and this is where business was conducted, banquets and celebrations were held.
During the two past world wars, Kirkwall was a base for the British Navy. During WWII, a German U-boat entered the Scapa Flow and fired torpedoes at a British ship, the “Royal Oak”, resting in the harbour late that night. Over 800 sailors were killed as the ship exploded. In such a small, close-knit, farming community you can imagine how deeply everyone was affected!
Check out this website to find out more: www.orkney.com/explore/kirkwall
I just heard the announcement for my flight, which is about to leave so I will have to stop here. Please take care in the meantime!
So sorry to cut this short. I will write again soon!
Cheers, Jae
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