Hello everyone!
It has been a busy few days here in Scotland and I haven't had too many free moments to sit and write, so expect a few instalments over the next few days. There’s so much to see and do here, and I've been trying to take it all in.
On Saturday, I flew from Inverness to Kirkwall, which is on the largest of the Orkney Islands. There are about 70 islands, but only about 20 are inhabited and with a population of about 21,000 people in total.
It is such a pleasure to NOT see a fast food restaurant, or anything similar to a big commercial store on this island, which takes approximately 2 hours to drive around.
There are many talented artisans throughout the island and there's a "craft trail", which we have been following as we drive around the island to see and buy the great works of these individuals. Already some beautiful road trips to a wool shed, pottery studio and jewellery shops!
"Spinning class" takes on a new meaning here. Sheep's wool is spun on looms in homes, and classes are offered so you can learn how to do this. Or, you can travel the island to visit these wool sheds and artisans’ shops to purchase their products directly.
Cattle farming is the mainstay here, although I've seen more sheep than cows. No feedlots in sight with free range and organic being the norm. Most restaurants and
shops are selling locally grown food. So awesome! It’s comforting to be able to trace where one’s food comes from in just a couple of steps!
There are windmills or wind turbines in various locations along with plenty of solar panels to sustain this area. In fact, this area has more energy than they need. However, to be able to share this power with other islands or the mainland, lines would need to be placed under and/or over the sea. This of course, would be extremely expensive and would undoubtedly, have a negative impact on the environment.
The place I am staying is called Woodwick House near the village of Evie, and overlooking a small bay which looks out to the Eynhallow Sound.
Please check out the website for this absolutely stunning place: www.woodwickhouse.co.uk
This spot has pretty much the only trees in the area. These ancient beauties surround the old Scottish style house. This home is nestled protectively within these towering trees. The property looks out towards the Eynhallow Sound and the island of Gairsay, which gives it a really cosy feel. I can’t help but wonder how old these trees really are as it has been noted that this settlement was established sometime around 800 A.D.
The outlying yard is a rich canopy of heather and bluebells. These flowers are so fragrant. This heady scent mixes with the smell of rain and humidity. Absolutely intoxicating in such a great way!
There is a lovely, babbling brook moving through the property and it is mesmerizing in its beauty and sound. This calming symphony fills the air, along with the Rooks.
These high-spirited birds look and sound similar to crows but with a deeper throaty caw. They have numerous nests in the trees just outside my bedroom window. A real community gathering. The conversations that they seem to have are quite lengthy and lively at times!
The food has been amazing, cooked to perfection with a real French influence as the two cooks are from France. They are currently working here for the season. These meals are so nourishing and delicious! Meal times are quite the event as we eagerly anticipate the sensational food we have the privilege of savouring!
On our first day we went to an ancient Pictish site called the Broch of Gurness. (It sounds really cool when the Scots say this name - rolling their 'r' like there's no end!)
“Broch” refers to the homes of stone, which was the main building material in the Iron Age. These structures are unique to Scotland.
The Picts were an ancient tribe or clan and this settlement was considered to have been one where the Picts lived during the 5th century A.D. I found out that many descendants of the MacGregor clan can trace their lineage back to these people. A very dramatic history for this clan, which included not being able to use their name for over 100 years.
Our hostess for this retreat, Catriona MacGregor, is a direct descendant of the Picts, and so we have acquired a new found respect for this clan. It’s really fascinating to me how far back some families have been able to trace their lineage and heritage.
Catriona’s stories of her ancestors and what they went through were so descriptive. What an amazing storyteller she is!
From her stories, it was confirmed for me that what I have believed for years and it still holds true. That I come to know myself better by discovering where my ancestors came from, and who led the way for me to be at this time in history!
Broch of Gurness was discovered by a local artist who had set up his easel and chair on a grassy mound overlooking the turquoise waters of Eynhallow Sound. As he settled in to get comfortable, the Earth suddenly gave way and he fell among these ruins.
Upon excavation, archeologists determined that this site dates back between 500 to 200 B.C. This Iron Age plot was considered to be the furthest northern defensive stronghold against marauding invaders.
This area was home to a farming community for about 20 families, and consists of rock homes located side by side. It was really amazing to see how well preserved these areas were kept considering how much history has come and gone since these people made their lives here.
Archaeologists also found that Vikings had used this same area years later as a burial ground back in the year 800 A.D. In recent history, only a number of years ago, a Viking woman from that era was found here resting peacefully.
Such a beautiful place with plenty of wildlife to see. Seals, abundant and diverse bird populations, and we were told this area is renowned for orca and minke whale sightings. I can see why ancient people settled here. A very serene and unspoilt place - then, and even now!
Check out this website for more information on this historical site: www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/broch-of-gurness/history/
Hope you are all doing great! Be back with more write-up shortly. Enjoy!
Cheers, Jae
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