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Writer's pictureJae Wiens

July 16, 2014 - Mongolia 2014

Updated: Apr 3, 2022

Hello again! Another installment to share with you of this phenomenal trip into the heart of Mongolia. So, to continue...!

My camping and riding crew and I spent a total of 6 days riding west, further into the Orkhon Valley. We journeyed up and over three mountain ranges, and within days we saw eight of the most beautiful, untouched lakes.

WILD BEAUTY

On our first night, I was warned to keep within sight of the camp while I went for a walk as there was a wolf pack in the area. And as we settled in for the night in the l'arche forests the howls echoed from across the lake and we could hear them moving towards us in the night.

At one point in the night, the horses and yaks were a bit agitated but we were in such good hands that wild life never concerned me at all. The experience of our three horse handlers, our tour guide, our chef, surrounded by our nine horses and four yaks to carry our stuff, we, as participants, were in great hands!

Meeting up with some of the local nomad families and staying by their camps was really a cool highlight. Being able to see how they lived was enlightening and reaffirmed for me that one doesn’t need to have much to have plenty of happiness.

After a full day of riding on our second day, we were invited into a family’s “ger” = yurt and offered “airag”. This is horse mare's fermented milk. And before you wrinkle up your nose and make “that” face, it was so delicious. It tasted like yogurt or buttermilk with a gradual buzz due to the fermentation. It was really awesome!

A NOMAD CAMP AT THE SECOND LAKE

These nomad families live in “gers” year round, and will move four times a year, or once a season. Most of the yurts we saw came equipped with a motorcycle, a solar panel and a satellite dish, so they weren't completely cut off from the rest of the world. And instead of using horses to round up their herds, a motorcycle was often the mode of transportation.

This type of roundup reminded me of my Dad , who had been using his ‘Japanese saddle horse’, named “Suzuki”- his dirt bike made by Suzuki - to round up the cows on our farm for years!

At the beginning of our horseback riding trek, I asked my group what their horses were like to ride. Horses feel their rider’s energy and any horse I have ridden certainly seems to take on my energy and mood, which after this experience I sense where I may need to improve on certain aspects of myself and yet, also appreciate more those aspects which still serve me.

My own answer to this question was that my horse was feisty. She was also very stubborn, unruly, adamant about getting her own way at times, and always seemed to shy away from the crowd to find her own path. She was strong and sure-footed. Loved treats! Always wanted to be free and ride full out in a gallop. Didn’t like being limited or held back, and certainly didn’t like crowds when we often bunched together on the trail. But best of all, she was uncompromising in listening to her own instincts!


For example, at one point throughout these days of riding, we were making our way through the woods and were about to trace the path down the mountain. The path I was on diverted a bit away from the others. We wandered on a bit until my resilient little horse stopped on the path suddenly. I urged her forward, giving her a slight nudge with my feet. But there was ABSOLUTELY no way she was budging. And then, taking a cue from her, I listened to her and to my own instincts, choosing to drop the reins.

Immediately, she veered off and moved to the right where we found another way down the mountain on a slippery and rocky path. As we were almost at the bottom, I looked up. And stared. Horrified and humbled.

MY HORSE ENJOYING A WELL-DESERVED TREAT

The path that I had wanted her to continue on, led to a 500 foot drop off where the mountain had crumbled away, and undoubtedly, the fall would have killed us both. Needless to say, that beautiful horse got plenty of extra treats, hugs, kisses and more free rein time for the rest of the journey!!

There were so many memorable moments on this trip. So much beauty and wonder to take in. I am in awe of this country, and have such a renewed sense of the natural

world. It was so refreshing to just be reminded that the beauty of life isn’t found in constantly looking and striving for it, but that beauty and peace comes to me when I am still. Nature has so much to teach me if I can just stop and listen.

It was great to get to know everyone who was on my expedition from Mongolia, Australia and Hong Kong. I know people are never put randomly on my path in life so it was intriguing to meet everyone and see these souls that crossed my path. I was truly blessed by the company I kept on this journey!

During our trek west, we saw every type of weather imaginable and I lived most of the time in my durable rain suit. So on our last morning as we packed up our camp and made our way to our last stop where our Driver, Tekka, was waiting for us, we were taking any weather in stride at this point. It should have been no surprise to face another wave of inclement weather. However, as we left our camp a storm was blowing in over the mountain peaks in the distance and we had no other choice but to ride into it.

HEADING INTO THE STORM

First the wind came in and then the thunder, which brought huge cracks of lightning and driving rain turning to large pebbles of hail. With our horses prancing about, rearing up in their fear and in ours, it was so brilliant to get into sync with each other as each of our horses pulled into a gallop as the lightning cracked and snapped in front of us. Forks of lightning descended from the churning clouds into the ground, the electricity crackling around us. At one point I looked over and we were all galloping in unison with our loaded down yaks in front of us, all of us racing to get to our next camp. The other riders looked at me then each other and we all had the very same elated smile on our faces.


Then when the hail and rain got too much, our horses suddenly stopped, turned their backs to the storm and stood there - and refused to move at all until the storm calmed.

I think this is one thing I learned the most during this trip. Surrender the control I think I have...and trust. My horse seemed to know best the route to take especially in treacherous spots, crossing rivers, going down steep inclines. And often, she knew the easiest path.

And, I also realized from the first day, that I live my life at times like I rode my horse. I hesitate, fearing the fall yet just want to let go and see what happens. And, when I did release the fear and hung on but trusted I would be ok, it was an exhilarating ride!

It was bittersweet saying goodbye to my horse who kept me so safe and taught me so much, yet I have to admit that my body was a bit relieved to have a rest. And the bumpy, crazy roads didn't seem so bad after the ride on horseback - I could actually sleep while being jostled to and fro! Going with the flow! At peace and filled with such contentment!

SAYING “GOOD-BYE” TO MY FEISTY HORSE WHO TAUGHT ME SO MUCH

We found it hard to say goodbye to our horse handlers as well. Such wonderful men who in their quiet, jovial ways watched us grow. Such respect I have for these nomads and teachers!

We made our way to Orkhon Waterfall, which is also called Ulaan Tsutgalan. These falls were formed from earthquakes and volcanic eruptions about 20,000 years ago, and today these falls are a popular destination. The falls are about 66 feet tall and 22 feet wide.


The Orkhon River is considered the longest river in Mongolia. I learned that the trajectory of this river spans a vast area in this remarkable country. It heads east from the Khangai Mountains through these falls and on through Kharakhorum. Eventually it turns north and merges with the Selenge River near the Russian border then flows through Russia and into Lake Baikal.

The Orkhon River and the falls are well protected. They are located in a National Park which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2006. They are very impressive and so deserving of a visit! That being said, the best time to see these falls is in July and August, because this is often the only time the falls flow once the first rains fall. So I feel very fortunate to have been able to witness these during my brief visit!

ORKHON RIVER FALLS

We arrived back in Kharakhorum for the yearly Nadaam Festival on our return journey after our venture west. According to Wikipedia, “the festival is also locally termed "eriin gurvan naadam" (эрийн гурван наадам), "the three games of men''. It is a three day festival to showcase Mongolia’s nomadic heritage in archery, wrestling, and horseback riding.

Women are now participating (again) as well, though not in wrestling. They used to be regular participants in all sports, but according to the book I read “The Secret History of the Mongol Queens - How The Daughters of Genghis Khan Rescued His Empire” by Jack Weatherford, a daughter of Genghis Khan used to beat the men in this sport and so women were eventually “dissuaded” (and forcefully persuaded) from participation over the years.


This is a very prominent festival every July, in which the whole nation takes part either as a participant (from child to elder) or avid cheerleader. This festival has been held for centuries on an annual basis. Genghis Khan’s nine horse tails representing the nine tribes of Mongolia are still transported to the stadium in Ulaanbaatar for the opening ceremonies. The main festival is held in Ulaanbaatar but every town and village celebrates with a festival as well.

Check out the website www.naadamfestival.com for more information on this great festival!
BEAUTIFUL TRIBAL MATRIARCHS AT THE KHARAKHORUM NAADAM FESTIVAL

When we attended in Kharakhorum, the people, especially the elders, of various tribes from all over the country came out to socialize, visit and display their tribe’s attributes and customs. The various costumes of the tribes were brilliant, vibrant and one could assume the history of these tribes by the added symbols and intricate sigils woven into the colourful fabric of their attire. Fascinating!

The horse races varied in length depending on the age group. Some of these kids were so small (5 years was the youngest participant) and yet had such proficiency and expertise on these large animals. Talk about inspiring!

Leaving Kharakhorum, we headed to our next destination, Tsaidam Camp, another yurt camp where we stayed in order to explore this area.

Here we had the opportunity to see how a yurt was built which was definitely a community project, everyone having their own job to do.


This area is home to Khusuu Tsaidam Museum, which houses Turkish stone monuments inscribed with runes dating back to the 8th century and commemorating Bilge Kagan, the Turkish Prince or Great Khan who ruled over Central Asia from 716 to his death in 734.

From what I read on the Encyclopedia Britannica site in researching this Khan’s influence, he is best known for “advising his successors that their power came from their nomadic life and to settle in agricultural communities would weaken them”. It seems like his advice is still adhered to here in Mongolia centuries later!

While in this area we also went to Uglii Lake which is another pristine lake in the middle of lush grasslands where people seem to come for camping and swimming.

Heading further east towards Ulaanbaatar, we also stopped at Hustai National Park where we were able to see the rare and endangered Przewalski's horses. It was amazing to see them running free and know that this large park had been set aside just for them, and for us to view them in their own natural habitat.

PRZEWALSKI'S HORSES AT HUSTAI NATIONAL PARK

There is so much more that I could write about with this trip. I'm surprised I slept at all with so much to see and experience. I know that I only saw a minute portion that this great country has to offer. I really cannot wait to come back and try another tour.

The connection with the land and spirituality is exactly what I needed to discover myself again. This land changes people and it certainly has done so for me.


So, coming back to Seoul in South Korea where I had lived for 3 years about 10 years ago, was going from one extreme to the other in terms of spirituality, in terms of materialism and busy-ness. Wow!!! Maybe I could have planned this a bit better!!! Perhaps I could have headed to a more remote centre or planned a hike to a temple, or something. I think that may have prepared me better for this!

COOLING DOWN ON A HOT DAY OF SUMMER

The constant, steady stream of people, traffic, noise is slightly overwhelming after the past couple of weeks in nature. I have to remember to breathe. It makes me realize that I don’t want this chaos in my life anymore. And that awareness is a good thing so I can focus on this!

I don’t believe we are supposed to be living in such busyness, which seems more and more like a big distraction from the life we are meant to live. I believe we are meant to live far more grounded, in tune with nature and our Self so we can be there more for others. Such a great experience I was immersed in while in Mongolia and I am so grateful for the renewed perspective I gained from it all!


And I am thankful to be here in Korea, in the summer which I remember now in its amazing humidity and sweltering heat. I love this weather. The umbrella companies sure have a niche in this country in this weather. It is so colourful with most of the umbrellas lining the streets shielding people from the hot sun, though I have to laugh to myself when I see pedestrians carrying ‘clear’ umbrellas in this weather against the heat of the sun. What???

I love such quirks, especially some of the signs in English. They don’t make sense, but they sure make me laugh.

I remember when I lived here, I went shopping for gift souvenirs and found a notebook with an English quote on it. It said, “Although you’re dull and stupid, you’re my best friend!” I never did give this notebook to anyone!

FUNNY ENGLISH SIGN ON A STOREFRONT IN SEOUL

Being here brings back a lot of wonderful memories as I walk along familiar streets, visit the quaint little markets and shops, and eat some amazing Korean food which I have been craving. I also get to visit with a good friend, who I have not seen in so long. It will be good to catch up.

I realized that I didn't lose as much of the language as I had thought, and learned a bit more as well. After 3 days though, I think I am ready to move on!

I am going to lie on a beach in Hawaii for a few days and sightsee to Pearl Harbour and more of Oahu/Waikiki before flying home on Friday night and Saturday morning.

I will try to write again before my flight home from Hawai’i! Take great care of yourselves and each other! Bye for now!

Cheers, Jae

GORGEOUS GRAFFITI IN SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA

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