So a few days in Seoul and I'm leaving today for Honolulu for a three day stopover and then heading back home....
It's been a whirlwind trip and so amazing! I will remember it for a long time to come. Of course, the highlight of this whole trip was Mongolia. It was really the most incredible experience and I couldn't be happier with my choice of tour company. The whole time I felt safe, protected and so taken care of. If you ever get the chance, check them out at www.discovermongolia.mn. They have so many great tours available besides the one I went on. You won’t be disappointed!
So, on the first day we took a tour of Ulaanbaatar. This is a beautiful city of 1.3 million fantastic people. During this tour we visited the National Museum of Mongolia with its impressive displays of tribal attire, weapons through the ages and the influences of so many eras of history on their traditions. To see artifacts from the Stone Age, Bronze Age and beyond was so much more than I had expected to find. Rather humbling to know that living in this age of history, we are just a small part of a greater whole. So many came before us to help us be where we are!
On the outskirts of the city, we visited the Zaisan Memorial, honoring both Mongolian and Soviet soldiers, who died during the second World War. The Communist hammer and sickle symbols of a bygone era were interspersed between lotus flowers in this memorial. Such a subtle display of extremes!
Mongolia was under Communist rule for 70 years. This rule ended without bloodshed in 1990 as younger people revolted through demonstrations, hunger strikes and following the influences of other former Communist nations. This Mongolian Revolution of 1990 inspired great reforms, a new constitution and the implementation of a democratic government.
UB as Ulaanbaatar is abbreviated, is such a great combination of so many eras. From the historical to the Soviet era to the modern age with the outlying hillsides dotted with “gers”= yurts overlooking the glass skyscrapers and towering apartment buildings. Really cool diverse landscape of buildings!
The countryside is where I spent most of the time on my tour. I have to say that driving through the Steppe and mountains was one of the most awe-inspiring things I have ever done. Our driver, Tekka, kept us so safe while we were jostled around in the back of a Caravan minivan as we headed west into the heart of this mysterious nation.
We would be traveling down a decent highway which would just end abruptly and suddenly we were “off road”. These crazy, bumpy roads, if that’s what you cared to call them, were an experience in themselves. I was so grateful for the seat belt that held my body in place as my head whipped from side to side while I longed to sleep but failed to do so. It was so worth it though, just to see such immense beauty everywhere I would look.
We passed Ovoos along our way. We then made a stop at one of these just off of the road on the side of a hill. It beckoned to us with its base built of stones placed there by travelers. Three times around, three stones laid, three prayers said for the spirits of the land or for the Ancestors who have come before.
Prayer flags of blue and white were placed on the pole in the middle of the rocks and these flags rose into the air by the wind that blew strong and fierce, taking the prayers into the heavens to be answered. We added our own prayers for safe travel for our journey.
This adventure was taking us into the depths of a land - free, wild and spiritual - providing glimpses of the Divine in this natural, unspoiled world. I left this place in peace, where others had come and gone before me. I left as well with a renewed reverence for the sacredness that seemed to greet me from this land, a calling which I could not see but which I felt as the wind blew over and around me.
We stopped at the edge of the Gobi Desert for a late lunch at a yurt camp - Bayan Gobi. The meal was so tasty and I dug into the stew we were given with gusto as though it was the first meal I had tasted in so long. Maybe it was the air that kick started this appetite of mine. Air that was so fresh and intoxicating like a drug I wanted more of. So fragrant with the smell of sage and wild grasses just after the rain. The sun pierced the blue of the sky which stretched on for miles out onto the horizons far and wide. A blue that was so rich like an ocean that swam above me. The colours were so vibrant against the yellow of the desert and I was in awe of the landscape that transformed around me so effortlessly.
Continuing our journey west, the land changed and so did the animal life. We saw fewer cows and horses, and spotted more camels and yaks as we passed by.
Yurts dotted the landscape near and far. Those yurts closest to the road kept a few horses bridled and these were tied loosely to lines tethered to thin logs placed vertically into the ground. The horses seemed unfazed by this other than a few frustrated pulls on their lines as they looked to taste the grasses below by their hooves but could not reach.
In the early evening as the sun still shone high in the sky we came to Kharakhorum, which was once the capital of Mongolia until it was moved to Ulaanbaatar, where we began this quest. There were discussions still to move the capital back to Kharakhorum in keeping with this country’s rich nomadic history. This smaller settlement is still lined
with dirt roads, no sidewalks, very few trees if any at all, and wooden high fences surrounding neighbourhoods to keep the people in and the animals out.
We were introduced to this place with a visit to the Kharakhorum Museum, which showcased not only Kharakhorum’s, but also Mongolia’s prominent history. Items on display included those from the Stone Age (approximately 800,000 BC) to the present. The intricacy and detail in the pottery, the iron works, the silver etchings and gold jewelry was just fascinating. For instance, the flower designs on some of the chariot wheels found in the 6 - 8 century Turkish artifacts, still looked brand new and recently made. Ancient and amazing!
So rich with stories and art, conflict and fights for freedom. I learned so much and at times felt overwhelmed by how much there is still to learn. What impressed me the most about visiting this museum, as well as the National Historical Museum in UB, was how much pride this nation takes in their ancestral nomadic beginnings and how far reaching they have been able to connect their past with their future. I came away with a new and deeper sense of respect for this nation, with their history and their current beliefs so grounded in such profound tradition.
Our second night, we spent time at a tourist “ger” camp on the outskirts of Kharakhorum. The main hall housed a restaurant where we ate our dinner and the following day’s breakfast. Another set of buildings contained the showers and bathrooms, which were a welcome sight after our long day of traveling over dusty roads in the heat. The yurts lay out row by row for visitors and included a central stove for heating it. This was surrounded by 4 beds and a dresser set up beside each one. In the early hours of the morning, I found myself waking to someone lighting the stove before falling back to sleep and then getting up to a cosy, warm yurt in the cold of the morning.
The yurt camp was surrounded by high hills and a fast moving river, which was bone-chilling cold to the touch. I climbed the hills and was able to view the landscape out in all directions as the sun began to set, the soft light of the evening casting a gentle glow out over the steppe. Such natural, effortless beauty! It seemed to take the layers of tension off that had built up months prior from work with its deadlines and constant projects.
At the top of the hill where I found myself, there was a visitor centre complete with an Ovoo of rocks piled high, prayer flags and the skulls of horses arranged around its base. The horse represented and still represents power to the Mongolians. Without these magnificent animals, tribes would never have been able to conquer the lands they did even before Genghis Khan and his descendants. Their use as transportation into and out of battle, as food in times of famine, and for the mare’s milk as the nation’s well-known drink, Araig, proved how valuable these animals were, and still are. In fact, the emblem on the national airline, Mongolian Airlines - MIAT (Mongolyn Irgenii Agaaryn Teever) is that of a horse.
The next morning after a hearty breakfast, we stopped at a few sights in Kharakhorum. Erdene Zuu Buddhist Monastery is prominent with its towering white walls and golden minarets adorning it. It was once the fortress of the city but now only houses a beautiful, peaceful monastery and temples in a landscape where the wildflowers mingle among the tall grasses. Rugged, wild, with a sense of reverence. And yet, outside the gates there are vendors selling trinkets, souvenirs, photos, and everything traditionally and modernly Mongolian.
I had a good discussion with one of the vendors about his offer. He was selling photos where people could hold an Eagle for a price.
I don’t believe that animals should be taken from their natural environment and exploited to amuse humans. So, in our discussion, I asked the vendor why he did not release the Eagle into the wild. I was told that this beauty was injured and unable to fly without more rehabilitation, and this money allowed for further care. Reluctantly, I
accepted this explanation and welcomed the chance to hold this Eagle on my arm for a photo, though I struggled to keep my arm upright with the tremendous weight of this gorgeous bird. As if on cue, this magnificent creature unfurled his wings over me. Such a powerful being and I felt empowered by his “hug”. A phenomenal experience!
I was so enthralled by him and would have loved to give him a hug back, but was warned quite sternly not to touch him beyond letting him sit on my arm, nor look directly in his eyes. He only tolerated me as a potential snack! Yikes!
After searching the souvenir stands for gifts, we slowly made our way back to our van and said “good-bye” to Kharakhorum as we headed west into the great unknown to find our next destination in the middle of the Steppe. We were hoping to get to our horse handlers’ home by nightfall or shortly thereafter, where we would stay the night and then choose our horse for our journey into the heart of Mongolia.
We were out beyond any signs of civilization but then we would suddenly come across a yurt emerging from the hills with animals scattered nearby. No fences, no telephone poles, very few trees, if any.
The land stretched on for miles with lush green meadows of beautiful wild flowers as far as one could see past the layers of mountains off into the horizon. At times, there were herds upon herds of horses galloping everywhere, as well as yaks and cows freely roaming but somehow staying in pockets around their owners’ camp as though they knew who took care of them. The goats always seemed to be leading the sheep up and down mountain sides.
So much wildlife here that at times the bird life blanketed the sky. Eagles, falcons, ravens, crows. I’ve never seen so many and I felt freer than I had ever felt. I imagined this is how they felt as they flew high overhead seeing the world from a higher and broader perspective. I sensed that this is how I am meant to see the world in this expansive landscape which spoke to me of home more so than any urban centre ever could.
Just when I thought I couldn't see more beauty we would come around a corner and I would be inspired again. I often found myself in tears at how gorgeous it was - so untouched, pristine and lovely!
There were some really beautiful memories I have from this trip, but one that I will remember for a long time to come was of this evening. It had just finished raining so the grass was still covered in droplets. Despite the mud splashing from the puddles on the path we were on, the van windows were open to let in the fresh air which was so rich with the smell of rain.
As we came around a hill and down into a valley, we noticed herds of horses by a small creek. In the early evening sun, the natural light fell on these horses who were running wild and free; their manes flowing out behind them in the breeze. A few of these were in a standoff with each other and as we passed they reared up towards one another in such synchronicity. This is what I had always pictured of Mongolia and to see it come to life before me on such a perfect day, I will never forget how in awe I felt of this vibrant, mystical country!
We carried on until we came to another small village where we stopped for dinner of local fare which was so delicious and served by the cooks with love. They were so curious about these foreigners who were bleary-eyed from traveling for hundreds of miles on crazy roads, and we were also curious about them. We couldn’t help but thank them profusely for the homemade meal which was so nourishing and nurturing. Such wonderful hospitality!
We wandered off into the night as the sun was setting behind the hills that hid the last remaining light of the day. It became dark very quickly. Once more, our Driver managed to find his way through the wilderness, in the rain and through the muddy roads. At one point, we came to a standstill after a slide sideways. We were stuck in the mud in darkness, which was so inky and pitch black. We couldn’t see anything but the brightness of the stars high overhead. Then, as suddenly as we were stuck we were moving again.
A community of angels pushed us out. Unseen to us in the van, the nomad people from the hillside yurts dotting the landscape had somehow heard of our plight and made their way to us. Without any coaxing they pushed us out. After much appreciation and thanks to them, we journeyed onwards and after about an hour, again we got stuck. But within minutes, we were being pushed out of our muddy hold by other hilltop Warriors. The kindness of strangers in the darkest moments! We sure felt taken care of!
The next morning, I woke early to the fire being built up in the yurt by the Matriarch of this small community. Instead of wood, which is a rare commodity here, but with dried yak dung. It gave off an earthy, sweet smell and was quick to light in the cold morning air. I got up and threw on some layers to ward off the cold before making my way out the door where I was instantly face to face with a shaggy haired yak staring back at me. We seemed to surprise one another as I jumped back just as he did, before he ran off.
I climbed the nearby hill with its rocky outcrops and jagged points. Having arrived in the dark, the surroundings were new to me and I smiled seeing the ruggedness of the place we had found. A wooden hall where meals were cooked and eaten with a simple patio overlooking a babbling brook. The other buildings were yurts that housed about four families - the parents, their three sons and their families. These sons were our horse handlers and protectors for the next phase of our journey.
On top of the hill I had climbed, I began my morning meditation and gratitudes. So much to be thankful for in this country, which has been so inspirational in my spiritual practice of seeing and knowing my Creator in every creature, person and the natural environment around me.
This rugged landscape reminded me of my roots in growing up on a farm. Being on land that is wild, rustic and untamed has always grounded me, connecting me to my Source and helping me find peace within myself and with the world around me.
As I had my eyes closed, I noticed the wind picking up through the valley as it tugged at my hair and blew over my face. Out of curiosity, I opened my eyes and over the valley at my eye level, twelve pairs of eyes were staring back at me as six falcons glided past.
They were not flapping their wings at all, just sailing on the current and sizing me up for breakfast. I was mesmerized to be shown such beauty. I couldn’t help but think that this was meant just for me to see!
As I went to close my eyes again, four Eagles at different times flew by me heading the direction we would be going. I had chills - spiritually - at the significance of this sighting of such magnificent beauty. Wow! What a quest I was about to begin!
Looking around, I could see our horse handlers coming out of the adjacent valley with horses ahead of them. From what I could tell, these horses were just as wild as this frontier - snorting, rearing up, unruly and slightly upset at having their day interrupted from grazing these lush grassy lands. It certainly seemed like the wild west. I was getting more curious as to what the day was about to bring!
So we found out that these horses were the ones we would be riding, starting this day, west into the wild, for six days. Their behaviour was a bit disconcerting at first, but then, I’ve been riding my whole life.
Having grown up riding a Shetland Pony, named Coco, who loved to head for a barbed wire fence and escape under it - with me (or my siblings) still on her back - I was rather adept at handling unruly horses and at the very least knew how to dive off one at the last minute! I was up for the challenge!
We had a bit of a riding introduction that morning, and after a real Mongolian bbq on the Steppe, we had a toast of Genghis Khan Vodka with our hosts to bless our journey.
The rains stopped just in time and we put our baggage and supplies on four yaks. We got reacquainted with our horses, and then nine of us headed west into the unknown to our first camp in the lake district.
So excited to see this remarkable land! Looking forward to sharing it all with you soon!
Cheers, Jae
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